Categories
Recipe

SCB BBQ 2015 Food Winner, The recipe

beernuts

Beer Glazed Nuts Recipe:
1 cup Blanched Peanuts
1 cup Mixed Nuts
1 cup White Sugar
1/2 cup Beer
1 tsp. salt
Pinch of salt

Directions: Preheat oven to 300 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium to large pot place nuts, sugar, ½ tsp. salt and beer. Place pot on high heat and stir until the mixture comes to a boil. Once it comes to a boil turn down the heat to medium and stir (this process will take about 10-20 minutes); until the syrup is almost dissolve (the syrup should be an inch to half-inch from the pot), once it is almost done sprinkle another ½ tsp. of salt and stir. Place nuts on baking sheet and spread with a rubber spatula, place in the oven for 10 minutes. Take nuts out and add pinch of salt and stir nuts with rubber spatula and place in oven for another 10 minutes. Once done let cool and separate nuts and let them cool.

Categories
Recipe

SCB BBQ 2015 Beer Winner, The Recipe

SCB BBQ Winner 2015
SCB BBQ Winner 2015

Citra and Simcoe Strong Bitter
Method: BIAB / BM

Style: Pale Ale
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 18 litres (fermenter volume)
Boil Size: 25 litres
Original Gravity: 1.050
Final Gravity: 1.010
ABV (standard): 5.25%
IBU: 40.62

Fermentables

Amount               Fermentable                                   PPG          °L            Bill %
3.3 kg      United Kingdom – Maris Otter Pale              38           3.75        88.6%
0.3 kg      United Kingdom – Munich                            37           6              8.1%
0.125 kg  United Kingdom – Cara Malt                        35           17.5         3.4%
3.73 kg  Total

Hops

Amount               Variety Type         AA          Use                                       Time       IBU
20 g        Citra        Leaf/Whole         14           Boil                                    60 min    40.62
5 g          Citra        Leaf/Whole         14           Whirlpool at 90 °C            10 min
25 g        Simcoe   Leaf/Whole         12.7         Whirlpool at 90 °C            10 min

 

Mash Guidelines

Amount Description             Temp      Time
25 L         Mash                  42 C        10 min
—             Mash                  65 C        70 min
—             Mash                  73 C        10 min
—             Mash                  78 C        10 min

Categories
Events

Scottish Craft Brewers – The BBQ

The first SCB BBQ has come and gone, good beer has been drunk and great food eaten!  If you weren’t there here’s what you missed.

Our first BBQ and the plan was to keep it quite safe venue wise, our President (Malcolm) mentioned that his parents’ home would be a great venue.  A permanent BBQ area, shelter on the odd chance the Scottish weather wouldn’t be kind to us and just off the public transport route, perfect!

The garden is huge and had plenty room to move around in, the kids really enjoyed running wild!

We decided to have a couple of friendly competitions both to be judged by the people at the BBQ, a Beer comp, we are the SCB after all and a Beer Based food comp, no categories, no styles the only criteria was….Beer in everything…simples!

BBQ foods 2015
Some of the incredible food in the competition

The Beer competition was quite a hotly contested affair with entries including a Beer with Ginger, a Black IPA, a Stone Beer (for more info ask Aled), a Galaxy smash and the winner which was a Pale Ale from Eli.
Quite a dizzying array of beers all of which I would happily consume until I couldn’t!

SCB BBQ 2015
Eli – Beer winner

The Beer in Food comp was another hotly contested comp with (in order in which they should be eaten!) Bread, Pretzels, 2 different joints of Brisket, Ribs, Cheesecake, Peanut Butter bars and the eventual (after a recount\revote) winner Beer Nuts.
All in all the two competitions provided enough beer and food to feed the participants with loads left over.

SCB BBQ 2015
Gordon – Food Winner
Eli- Beer Champion Gordon - Food Champion SCB BBQ 2015
Eli- Beer Champion
Gordon – Food Champion
SCB BBQ 2015

A great day was had by all and already looking forward to next year!
Massive thanks to Stuart for all the grilling he did and Malcs parents Colin and May for their hospitality!

SCB BBQ 2015
SCB BBQ 2015

 

Categories
Articles

BUILDING A PARTY BAR

Club member Kate Appleby-Donald has kindly shared a blog post she wrote on how to build your own bar.

WEDDING 3Any home brewer who says they wouldn’t love a bar to pour their beer from is quite frankly a big fat liar. So we finally gave into the desire  and had a go at building our own party bar to serve beer from and forgive me for being smug, but I think it turned out pretty damn awesome so I thought I’d share the details with you so you too can have your own party bar.

This blog post is written specifically as an instruction guide for building a bar as a DIY project so forgive me for being a bit boring as I go through step by step guides and show you my little doodled plans.

Hey you’ll thank me if you have a go at building your own bar – and if you do, I’d love to see photos of the finished build.

 

EQUIPMENT FOR THE BUILD

  • Workbench and clamps
  • Saw (I used a handsaw but a circular bench saw would be quicker and neater)
  • Power Drill +22 mm cutting bit to make holes for taps
  • Power screwdriver
  • Hammer
  • Spirit level
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil

MATERIALS

  • Floorboards -20mm X 120mm
  • Framing- 19mm X 38mm
  • Feather boarding – 100mm wide
  • Pressure treated boards 100mm x 20mm (used for bar top and tap board – make sure these are a suitable thickness relative to the length of the shanks on your beer taps)
  • 4 Heavy duty casters
  • Screws
  • Panel pins / ribbed nails
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood stain
  • Felt or other dark fabric to cover the beer lines and kegs to prevent skunking or unwanted fiddling with the set up of your kit

 

STEP BY STEP GUIDE

Okay, here I’ve included my hand drawn doodles but I’ve also typed out my instructions, so don’t worry if you can’t read my handwriting, it’s all here. Now remember, we built this to fit the sizes we needed to fit four kegs inside buckets of ice, and to fit the space on our patio etc., your sizes might be different. Also, I’m a Librarian, not a joiner and my woodworking skills were mostly developed during time spent building stage sets for an amatuer theatre company, so Chippendale I ain’t!

 

STEP 1 – THE BASE

The base is essentially a big square frame with 2 inner bracing bars to keep the shape rigid and also to support the flooring and spread the weight once the kegs are in place. The framing is formed by screwing together lengths of 19mm x 38mm framing, the flooring was made using 20 mm x 120mm floor boards which we had left over from another project. You could use a solid piece of mdf or other boarding for the floor – the key issue is to ensure it will be strong enough to hold the kegs – we had 4 full kegs plus buckets of ice water and the CO2 tank so the total load was about 120kg. Whichever type of floor is fitted ensure that space is left at either side to fit the uprights which will form the tap board and for the corner posts. If your bar is to be mobile, it may be worth fitting the casters at this point as it will help with working out heights for the bar top/back board – depending on the casters you use they can add 6 inches or more to the height of the finished bar.


base

wpid-imag3672.jpg

The floor is screwed onto the frame.

floor

wpid-imag3677.jpg

casters

STEP 2 – THE TOP:

The top frame is constructed in a similar way to the bottom, however the bracing runs in the opposite direction to support the boards which will form the bar top. As with the base the corner joints were formed so that the “front” of the frame overlaps the sides to form a neater looking finish. We left the screws/nails etc visible but you could counter sink these and then use wood filler to conceal them.

top

STEP 3 – CORNER POSTS

The corner posts were formed by doubling up 2 pieces of the framing timber to form square posts – we used contact adhesive and screws to hold these together – as with many of our measurements and methods we were making the best use of the materials we had to hand rather than purpose buying additional timber for specific purposes – this kept the build costs down, but did mean a bit of extra work/ingenuity at times! You could just buy square posts in the first place.

The length of the corner posts will be determined by a couple of factors:

  • the clearance height required to accommodate the kegs in their cooling buckets and the connectors, with space to reach in and attach/adjust these
  • the desired height for the bar top

These measurements will vary depending on your kit and your own preferences (and height) but in our case we have corny kegs with pinlock connectors and Eli is 5′ tall so we settled on a height of 900mm for the posts, adding in the height of the casters this makes the bartop 965mm from the ground.

Depending on the dimensions of your bar you may also want to put in some additional posts in the middle of the longer edge of the frame. This might be good to prevent the bar top from sagging or bending if it’s quite long – we put one in the centre of the front – mostly to act as an extra contact point for the cladding – we didn’t put one on the back as it would have made putting the kegs inside a bit trickier.

corner posts

wpid-imag3680.jpg

brace

 

STEP 4 – UPRIGHTS & BAR TOP & TAP BOARD

Two uprights, roughly centre of the frame (sides) will form the frame for the tapboard – their positioning relative to the front of the bar and their height will depend on:

  • What type of taps you have – you need clearance under the taps for glasses
  • What your reach is for pouring – ie how high can you reach and how far back (so how deep will the bar top be)
  • Do you want extra height above the taps – to put tap labels, a bar sign or in our case to display the handmade mash paddle we were given as a wedding present. Best to err on the side of caution and make the upright too long and cut it back rather than find yourself short.

We went with a bar top that is 3 boards wide, and the tapboard is 7 boards high. The bar top is wide enough to accommodate a bar runner/drip tray etc. All the boards are screwed in place to ensure a tight fit and stable surface for the taps – last thing you want is to go to pull a pint and have the whole board come away in your hand!

Fit the planks for the bar top and tap board into position – remembering to drill the holes for the taps into the correct board before fitting that one in place – its easier to do this on the workbench to make sure the holes are straight and level.

uprights

top section

wpid-imag3687.jpg

wpid-imag3683.jpg

STEP 5 – CLADDING

Now that the basic frame is complete you can start adding the cladding. We used pressure treated featherboard as this is an outside bar and we wanted it to withstand the  elements – featherboard will allow any rainwater (or spilled beer) to run off the sides easily. As with the rest of the framing, we allowed an overlap either end of the cladding on the front of the bar so that it hides the ends of the pieces fitted to the sides. When fitting the last piece at the bottom of the front face, this piece is set at an slight outward angle due to the flooring protruding over the edge of the frame – however because we used feather board this was easy to accommodate and the addition of an additional piece of framing as facia plate covered over the small gap.

bottom section

wpid-imag3703.jpg

STEP 6 – COVERING YOUR REAR

To protect the beer lines from light and to prevent unwanted or accidental tampering with the lines/gas tec. we added side cladding above the bar top at the rear of the tap board – adding a small upright to the rear edge to help anchor the boards. The final protection is a sheet of black felt the width of the tapboard stapled above the taps which drops over the beer lines and kegs to keep them out of the light and out of sight.

beer lines

wpid-imag3812.jpg

STEP 7 – FINISHING TOUCHES

Once the build is complete you can then sand down all the outer surfaces and paint/stain/varnish as you wish. As our bar will be for outdoor use, we used Ronseal exterior woodstain which has given the wood a nice warm color and also gives a good waterproof protection.

EQUIPMENT FOR THE BAR SIDE OF THINGS (TAPS ETC)

Our bar holds four kegs and has four taps. Remember that without the actual beer dispensing equipment your bar is just a big wooden box.

You would need;

  • Taps
  • Shanks
  • Beer line & Gas line
  • John Guest connectors or sankey connectors
  • Corny or sankey kegs
  • Co2 tank
  • Gas management board or regulator

 

STEP 8 – ENJOY!

That’s all there is to it – now connect up your kegs and enjoy a well earned beer!

I hope this guide will encourage some of you to take the plunge and build your own bar – if you have any questions or feedback, please feel free to get in touch.

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11817160_10101337448275341_6218955116769542437_n

bar

 

 

Categories
Events General

2015 AGM

The Club 2015 AGM was held on 10th May at McCowan’s Pub, Fountain Park, Edinburgh

Minutes of the AGM

Treasurer’s Report:

  • £1458.75 in funds
  • 31 members have renewed
  • Report was accepted and seconded

Membership:

  •  Reminders for membership fees
  • Generate names from membership list and contact
  • Contact people who haven’t been to a meeting in a long time and ask if they still want to pay – Norrie is working through these on an ad-hoc basis.
  •  Historically April is start of membership year.
  • Remind members that they can pay through cash or standing order. Better for record keeping that a Standing order is raised. This can be done in paper form or electronically by the new/renewing member.  Fees will be: £8 for direct debit or standing order and £10 if paying cash at a meeting.

Office Bearers for 2015/16

As is traditional at our AGM, the election of office bearers for the coming year took place. The following club members were elected.

  • President: Malcolm Cruickshank
  • Vice president: Eli Donald
  • Secretary: Norrie Pederson
  • Treasurer: Bob Bristow
  • Membership Secretary: Gordon Nicol
  • Digital Media Manager: Arek Makarenko
  • Non office bearing committee: Davie Whyte has stepped down . Aled is to send the list out to Eli, for use on the website.
  • See webpage for contact details

It was noted that you don’t need to be on the committee to put forward suggestions etc.

Eli requested that members support the website. Stephen and Aled will input into the wordpress blog.

Aled Murphy will have a look at the SCB twitter account.

Ask Arek as to what the new Video Conference software we are using is.

Ian McManus stepping down from an Office Bearer role! After 17 years of service to the SCB organisation, Ian, is putting his ledger aside. He has held all the offices on the committee and to acknowledge his commitment to the SCB he has been made a life member.

Bill Cooper said a few words describing the inaugural meeting held in 1997. The SCB was set up just after the CBA was set up – it was felt that something similar should be started in Scotland. Ian’s input both as a brewer, qualified Judge and friend is appreciated and the SCB would have been a less happy place without him.

2015/16 Itinerary

Restart midweek meetings – is this possible?  The Brewstore was proposed. Possibly downstairs?

Meetups instead?

Future Trips-

  • Archer Field + Maltster
  • Elixir
  • Pilot Brewery
  • Abbot Brewhouse
  • St. Andrews Brewery
  • Krafty Brew
  • Hanging Bat
  • Brewstore – all grain day
  • Home Visits – “Brew days”
  • Scottish Craft Brewers BBQ – Beecraigs or Yellowcraigs
  • Talks/Activities-
  • “Grain Father” talk by Keith  / Braumeister by Eli?
  • Malcolm C – Beer extracts
  • Unusual brewing adjuncts trial brew– try “weird”

Pencilled plan for 2015/16

June Meeting >>> push out to July 9th at Scottish Trad beer festival

September – Heriott Watt talk

Nov – TBD

Jan – Comp

April – AGM, trial brew tasting

Categories
Articles Events

Brewing up a batch – The craft beer kitchen

Scottish Craft Brewers brew up a beer in the Stewart Brewing Craft Beer Kitchen

Well, what a day yesterday!! I felt like a kid in a sweet shop!!

15ish lads and lassies from Scottish Craft Brewers turned up to brew 3 beers, an IPA/lager, a Christmas beer and an American rye at the craft beer kitchen at Stewarts.

Boy what a welcome to get us started, the guys at the brewery shop gave us each 5 beer tokens to use on the 10 or so beers they had on tap, and if that wasn’t enough they had a cask of “hopricot” sitting in the brewing area for us to quaff away at with no supervision:)

So enough of the beer drinking onto the brewing. We had a few newcomers to the group that were chucked in at the deep end with the usual mixture of seasoned kit brewers and all grainers but they seemed to relish the challenge and within half an hour were sounding like experts.

We split into three groups and each group was allotted a member of the Stewart’s team as help and a steam powered 100-120l boiler to brew in. Then it was down to ingredients. Malt extract to measure, speciality grains to grind and hops to weigh. The bulk of sugars for these brews came from malt extract meaning  we could all get a brew in without having to hang around for 6 hours, but we steeped some grains for some extra taste and colour and added various hops (in vast quantities) to make the beer our own.

Most of us aren’t used to brewing on this scale so even simple tasks like stirring the malt into the boil was a new experience with huge mash paddles and brute strength needed.

As if all that beer and brewing wasn’t enough, onve our brews were sorted we also got a  fantastic trip around the brewery with a guide telling us the history of the company and all about the kit they use to brew. Even the seasoned brewers amongst us learned a thing or two.

So after brewing 80-100l of beer, a trip round the brewery with all the facts and being sat getting fed their beer, could say it was a great day! Need to get some more of the group out there next time and maybe do an all grain session.

By Bruce Stevenson

 

Categories
Recipe

American Wheat

Beer Name: American Wheat
Brew Length 21 Original Gravity 1044 EBU 71
Efficiency (%) 75 Racking Gravity 1010 ABV 4.1%
Grains/Adjuncts Weight (kg) 100% 75% Sugars
Pale Malt 2.000 28.57 21.43 48.7%
Rye Malt 2.000 26.67 20.00 45.5%
Crystal Malt 0.050 0.64 0.48 1.1%
Total for Grain 4.050 1055.88 1041.91
Racking 1010.48
Copper Hops
Hop Schedule Amount (g) %AA BU
Dr Rudi Start 30 13 50.14
50.14
Aroma Hops
Hop Schedule Amount (g) %AA BU
Amerillo 15 mins 40 9.2 21.03
Yeast US05
Mash Time 120mins Strike Temperature 74
Boil Time 60mins Mash Temperature 67
Summary
How Much wort collected (after boil and runoff) 21.5
Gravity of Collected Wort 1044
FG 1010 Actual ABV 4.42%

by Arek Makarenko

Categories
Recipe

Redcap

 

Beer Name: Red Rye Pale Ale
Date 12 September 2014
Brew Length 25 Original Gravity 1050 EBU 36
Efficiency (%) 75 Racking Gravity 1012 ABV 4.8%
Grains/Adjuncts Weight (kg) 100% 75% Sugars
Pale Malt 3.500 42.00 31.50 63.0%
Rye Malt 1.000 11.20 8.40 16.8%
Carared 0.500 5.40 4.05 8.1%
Crystal Malt 0.250 2.68 2.01 4.0%
Malted Wheat 0.250 2.68 2.01 4.0%
Vienna Malt 0.250 2.70 2.03 4.1%
Total for Grain 5.750 1066.66 1050.00
Racking 1012.50
Copper Hops
Hop Schedule Amount (g) %AA BU
Perle Start 35 7 26.46
26.46
Aroma Hops
Hop Schedule Amount (g) %AA BU
Amerillo 15 mins 15 9.2 6.62
Amerillo 5 mins 15 9.2 2.76
Amerillo 0 mins 50 9.2 0.00
9.38
Clarifying Amount (g) Schedule
Protofloc 1 tablet 15 mins
Yeast WLP051 Californian V
Mash Time 90mins Strike Temperature 74
Boil Time 60mins Mash Temperature 66
Batch Sparge Calculation
Loss to Hops 3 Top Up Liquor 5.675
Dead Space 1 Second Batch 20.05
Evaporation 15.00% Total Sparge Liquor 25.725
Mash Liquor 14.375 Total Liquor 40.1
Summary
How Much wort collected (after boil and runoff) 24
Gravity of Collected Wort 1048
Amount of water to add to achieve required gravity -0.96
Total Figures 23.04 litres        @ 1050
Calculated Efficiency 0.00%
FG 1016 Actual ABV 4.42%

by Calum Craigie

Categories
General

An update – making your own bottle labels for your home-brew beer

selection of beer labelsI thought it might be time for a quick update on what I’m doing and maybe some more hints and tips that I didn’t post last time. The blog post I did is still available if you want to have a look –

If you hadn’t read it previously I’d say go read that post and come back as there is some useful information there that will set you up to get started.

You read it? Good then lets look at some new labels and how I did them.

 

 My labels – how did I choose that design?

Brew dog labelI actually didn’t start off with that design for my bottles. I’ve gone through a whole process of trying out different labels until I found the one that got me most excited and although at the minute I am really pleased with them, they are not perfect but I’ll tell you more about that later.

My first label idea was based on the Brewdog labels. I liked the bold colours and text of the design and I liked the slightly grungy look so I had a play about with how I could recreate that kind of idea.

lager labelMy first attempt was for a coopers lager kit I did, so of course thinking of Australian lager, I made the label yellow. Looking back, it’s not a brilliant label not least because of the poor choice of yellow background with white lettering which wasn’t easy to read. Also it was a bit cluttered. I tried to put a name for the beer, details about what it looked and tasted like, the style, the percentage, a logo for my “brewery” and some information about pouring it since it had yeast in the bottle. An awful lot of info to get onto a little square of paper. Things did continue to evolve though.

I switched colours mostly, so each beer had the same label but with the background as a different colour. Red for Goblin Queen, Purple for Heather Ale etc. But I mostly stuck with this design, just adding a couple of little bits to grunge it up a bit and it worked fine for a while, all our beers had this label on them and together they looked quite cool sitting on a shelf and I was pretty proud.

 

beer lined up

 

However the grunginess and the massive amounts of text started to annoy me and I wanted something simple and bold. Something modern. So I scrapped it all and started with a blank, white square and said, “What text actually NEEDS to be there?” And the scary thing is, not as much as you think.

So I went for a very stripped down version, just a square of bold colour and the text I needed in a plain bold font. It worked out great and I am still using this idea although tweaked ever so slightly.

Bottles with new labels

 

 So how do I make the labels?

Ok, I normally use a piece of software called Fireworks to make my labels but since there are lots of free versions of graphics software out there, I’m going to show you how I would create a simple version of this label using one of the pieces of software you can get for free.

apa label

 

First download a piece of software called GIMP from this webpage and install it. http://www.gimp.org/

 Creating your label

step 1- get started

ok once you have GIMP open on your computer you need to create a new work area. Simply done, click FILE and then NEW. This gives you a choice of sizes to play with. For this label I usually make it around 500 pixel each length so I choose the template from the drop box which nearest fits this size – 640 by 480.

step 2 – draw your label outline

Click on the rectangle tool on the tool box.

step 2

 

Then drag the rectangle shape to the rough size you want.

To colour the rectangle, double click on the colour box and then choose the colour you want from the pop up window.

colour picker

Now to fill your rectangle with the colour you have chosen, click on the fill tool and then on your rectangle. I chose white but you can choose any colour you like.

fill tool

The next thing we want to do is to create the black outline around the rectangle. To do this we have to choose the background colour. On the graphic above you can see the colour boxes are red and black, red is the foreground colour and black is the background colour. You can either change the foreground colour (as you did previously) or you can switch them around by clicking the little white arrows on the top right of the colour boxes.

However you do it, for this example we want to give our rectangle a black outline so make your colour black.

Then using the menus at the top of the screen, click on EDIT, then STROKE SELECTION. It will now open the window where you can edit the outline.

stroke

 

For this example I am going to change my stroke settings to have a solid line and a line width of 1 px then click STROKE.

step 3 – draw your centre rectangles

You should now have a white rectangle with a black outline on the screen. The next thing we are going to do is add another rectangle in the middle of the first and colour it red. We do this in exactly the same way as before. Click on the rectangle tool, draw your rectangle and then use the colour picker and fill tool to colour it, in this instance red.

red square

Now you are rocking!

Right next we are going to add the white band where you put the name of your brewery. Exactly the same as before choose the rectangle tool, then draw it out where you want it and then use the colour tool and fill tool to colour it white.

 

step 4 – adding text

Now we have the basic shapes in place, we are going to add the text. Firstly the name of the beer. in the example I am calling my beer APA, for American Pale Ale.

From the toolbox, click on the bold A in the centre, this is your text tool.

text tool

As you did for your rectangles, draw out the area you want your text to go. It’s good to make it much bigger than you need for the minute, you can always make it smaller later.

Inside the space you have just drawn, double click and then type the text you want. A text tool bar will appear which will allow you to change the size or colour. Get everything as you want it by highlighting the text you just written and then using this bar to make changes.

To adjust the font or the position of the text, you can do this from the tool options on the left.

font tools

 

 

On my example I have text that looks like it has a dark shadow. I made this by having two pieces of text. One white and one black. Then I moved one on top of the other.

To move an item such as text, click on the moving tool from the tool box and then click on the item and drag it to where you want it to be.

drag tool

The other tool you need to know about is the layers toolbox. It allows you to move layers to have one on top of the other. In this case the white text on top of the black text.

The layer which you want to be on top, will be top of the list. For example, our white rectangle is the back, then next is the red one, then the black text and then the white text as this is the order we want them to appear.

layers

Adjust yours so that your text appears as you want it.

You now use this same set of tools to add your other text elements to your label and in the end you should end up with something similar to this.

simple label

 

 

step 5 – saving your graphic

Right, you’ve created a brilliant label that you are super proud of. Now you want to save it so you can print it and use it on your new beer.

The first thing you want to do is get rid of any of the excess white area (or canvas) around your graphic.

From the menu at the top of the screen, click IMAGE. Then click FIT CANVAS TO SELECTION. this will take out all the excess canvas for you.

Lastly we want to save your creation, so to do this, click FILE and then EXPORT. This will open a window where you can choose the type of file to save and give it a name. I’d recommend using the little cross on the bottom left to choose SELECT FILE TYPE and then from the list that appears choose GIF.

Now at the top, give your file a name and then click EXPORT.

image

 

By Eli Donald.

Categories
General

Making your own labels and pump clips

As many of our regular club members will know, I enjoy making labels and pump clips for my home-made beer almost as much as I enjoy making the beer itself. So I thought I’d share a blog post I wrote in my own blog about how I go about making my own labels and sticking them to the bottles. I think this is something a lot of home brewers are thinking about just now as we sometimes give beer as Christmas presents so obviously you want people to know what beer you have given them but also it’s nice to give a gift that looks good.

Step 1

so where do I start? Well usually by looking at beers available in my local beer store or supermarket and deciding which labels I like and why. A lot of the time, the labels can influence our decision to buy a beer (even if we don’t like to admit it), so it’s a good exercise to do, what do I like about the label, what does the label imply, what assumptions am I making?

I also look online and one blog I have found which I love just for looking at really nicely done graphic design for the beer industry is OhBeautifulBeer.com. They regularly show fantastic labels and poster and other beer paraphernalia and usually with a nice back story from the designers about they came to their decisions when designing. I would recommend popping onto the blog for a look and some ideas.

Step 2

So you have looked at other beer labels and decided on the kind of thing you like. Now you need to work out what size your label should be. The simplest way to do this is to measure one of the labels you liked.

wpid-Measure-label

 

Step 3

You have your label style idea, you have your label size. Next sketch your idea out on a bit of paper. This way you can keep adjusting your ideas if you realise you’ve forgotten something important or if things don’t look as good on paper as they did in your head. The important thing here is just to get your ideas down on paper; it doesn’t matter if you are a fantastic artist or if you just draw some boxes and a stick man. After all a lot of artisan products these days go for the “rustic/handmade” look.

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Step 4

You have your label idea, now you need to decide how you are going to create it. Are you going to draw your label and then photocopy it or are you going to create it on the computer? What way suits you best?

If you do decide to create it on the computer, you might want to think about what software you will use. Graphic design software is great and offers you so much versatility in what you can do, but it’s also expensive. But a lot of software comes with a 30 day trial for free or there is even some free graphic design software out there.

Free software to try:

• GIMP – http://www.gimp.org/

• Paint.net – http://www.getpaint.net/index.html

• Inkscape – http://inkscape.org/

Try something out, look up YouTube videos to teach you how it works and then have a good play and see what you can do.

Here’s the finished label I made.

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Step 5

Once you have your labels designed it’s time to print them out and attach. I’d recommend using a laserjet printer for this as the ink is less likely to run. I’ve found that the ink runs a little on deskjet printer so if I use a deskjet I also spray hairspray onto the labels after printer to help “fix” the ink.

Now you have some choices on how to attach your labels to your bottles. It depends on how you are going to treat the beer.

If you are giving the bottles away as gifts, you might want to either print onto sticky paper labels which you can buy in stationery stores of your could use pritt stick to attach them to your bottles. The last thing you want is for the label to come off.

The down side to doing this is that if you want to reuse bottles for another brew, these glued or sticky labels can be a right hassle to get off the bottle again.

If I’m just bottling for us to drink at home my solution is that I stick the labels on using milk. Yup plain old milk. If you coat a very thin layer on the back of the label it sticks perfectly to the bottle and in about an hour you have a perfectly affixed label that will come off really easily in a little hot water when you clean your bottles. I know some folk worry about the idea of using milk incase it smells but don’t worry. I don’t know the science bit, but it doesn’t smell. Honestly I’ve been doing this for a couple of years and you’ve all drank my beer at one meeting or another 🙂

Some of my labels and pump clips

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You can see more of my beer and other blog posts on my blog – http://www.elidonald.co.uk/blog